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Zippers Aren't Scary: Invisible Zips in 5 Steps

The secret is a special foot and a little patience. Mostly the foot.

8 min readIntermediate
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Invisible zips are the one technique that looks impossible right up until the moment you switch the foot. The presser foot has a little groove in it, and the zipper teeth ride in that groove instead of being stitched over.

Everything else is ordinary. The only thing that will trip you up is failing to sew the seam allowance first, so please don't.

Once you've done one, you'll use them on everything. They're cleaner than a standard zip and they look like there isn't a zip at all.

1What you’ll need

  • An invisible zip in the length you need
  • An invisible zip foot (a 5 mm foot fits most domestic machines)
  • Your garment fabric and thread

2How to make it

  1. 1Sew the seam allowance on both sides of the opening before touching the zip.
  2. 2Press the seam allowances open and to one side so the zip tape has a flat place to sit.
  3. 3Place the zip under the left seam allowance and pin it, teeth facing you.
  4. 4Switch to the invisible zip foot and stitch close to the teeth. Let the foot do the work.
  5. 5Close the zip, press the seam open and topstitch if your pattern asks for it.
  • #zip
  • #invisible zip
  • #technique

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